What follows is a true account of a recent holiday, although certain names have been disguised to protect the culprits. A road trip to the south of France had seemed like a good idea at the time and one thing is for certain, those who were there will never forget it.
We pick up the action with me thrashing my weary (and now departed) M3 along the A7 and then down the twisting lanes to Port de Cassis. Over a concert of the Beemer’s straight six, eye watering wind, the Arctic Monkeys and terrified
screams from my wife we had rumbled down Route des Calanques, past human quilt beaches, before I screeched into the cramped car park of Hotel Les Roches Blanches. Relieved, I remember grinning reassuringly at my wife. Unfortunately, her petrified features, and Bridget Jones hair, said that I was in trouble. Our peaceful holiday, a French grand tour, was seriously tits up.
Defensively, my mind had returned to the day, months earlier, when the lunacy was hatched. New Year’s Day had found the conspirators huddled over drinks, correcting hangovers. Those present included “The Cleaner” (cleaning business owner), “The Developer” (property developer), “the Lawyer” (that’s me) and their dear, long suffering wives. A summer road trip en Francais avec trois voitures was painfully unveiled. Those unsuspecting vehicles were to be a Porsche 911, BMW M3 and Mercedes sl55 AMG (hereafter “the Beast”) with almost 1200 bhp, and 500mph, combined.
The track would include Autoroute 6 to the Cote D’Azur, then Monaco, an about turn to St Tropez and a final stage through the Loire valley. However, although the Cleaner impressively breached the “it’s not a race” pact, proposing limiter deactivation, we knew the plan lacked largeness.
In a moment of inspiration, the Developer suggested that we should charter a boat. Aqua Sea Syndicate (charter company) could stun us for about £16k; four days, pro skipper, cook and bottomless booze.
The Cleaner vacillated.
“For God’s sake, you only live once,” urged the Developer accurately, shaking his goblet, speaking of “not being small” and “a different port each night.” Casino Square, Cap Ferrat and Club De Roy in St Tropez. Unarguable. To share the cost “the Gardner” (a landscaper) was also invited, and on that dirty winter’s day we thought that for some reason we deserved it. You could never have too much gearing and, let’s face it, we would be lucky to make forty anyway. With a convivial glass clink the scene was set.
Day one: The big mucky day arrived with a savage 4-30 am kick start and a short stage to Folkestone. Terror threats tightened security and, once I managed to open the bonnet, the M3 endured a mirrored strip search. Certified benign, we crept into Eurotunnel’s corrugated crates. No expense incurred; no Dixons, or Harrods or Costa concessions. Just lights out and a power nap.
We surfaced beneath a slate sky and lancing rain. With holiday smiles we weaved through snarled British plodders in Touaregs and Vectras; back windows obscured by potted plants and Shrek duvets. Canoe shaped containers decorated most roofs, like statements against nature; plastic coffins for tent pegs, emergency cornflakes and HP sauce.
After a two hour stint we pitted so the Cleaner could feed the Beast and the rest of us filled up with Croque Monsieurs. Later (fully forty five minutes), whilst powering through charcoal spray my wife started babbling tearfully about warp factor speed and vehicular incarceration, demanding a pool. Separated from the other teams, I had bigger fish to fry; 9 miles in the tank and no pumps in sight. My wife, renamed the Shrew, screamed unhelpfully. Sweat flowed until I saw the sign. At the “petrol station” two unmanned pumps, one working, cooked under perspex visors in a concrete field. Alarmingly, Mastercard, Visa and Maestro were casually spat back. Not French enough. Cash not good either. Zut Alors!
The Shrew rocked, my fuel flat lined, then Sat Nav heroically forced me back north to a manned Esso. Awesome, but now I was miles behind.
Three hours later we enjoyed confused circuits of medieval Beaune before stumbling on our hotel, Hostellerie le Cedre. The Shrew hurled herself from the moving Beemer; it was time for some refreshment.
For joyous moments the weary teams downed Kronenburg and Rose beneath a small cloud hole allowing some summer in. Then the blackening sky sealed, and it pissed down. “Time for a long lunch,” offered the Cleaner through a Marlboro fog. The restaurant was a haze of red, white and sinuous Tripe sausage “of the region,” ordered in error. I allowed the Shrew a taste test, producing a vomit.
Day two: Alcoholically unstable, I slipped in the shower headbutting a forgotten shelf. Blood dribbled through breakfast, like Terry Butcher, or our ‘Enry. The Developer sacrificed croissants for a head start in the non-race. Finishing my cappuccino I heard the Beast powering away. Merde!
I doltishly announced that we must catch up. The Shrew, perhaps overtired, declared war and stormed off through pissing rain to do “some shopping”. Two cushions and a scented candle later we got going, and I struggled through nausea, dehydration and gut cramps, pondering the after life. I marvelled at the continental motorists’ misleading blinkers for miles after every blind lurch, the unpredictable lane straddling and chancy track drifting. Saxos and Twingos tailgated thrillingly before screwing themselves into pinprick gaps ahead of me. Crisis breaking at a ton kept me focused, with only the occasional word from the sexy sat nav for company; Shrew on silent.
Fortunately, Burgundy became Boulogne, became Lyon then St Etienne as we stumbled into summer.
Finally, we found Les Terraces d’Eze, cleaved into mountain and accessed by a helter skelter ramp. Each team had ploughed down oblivious to the traffic light control. Management unimpressed but little harm done.
Day three: Time for the infinity pool and sultry reflection, looking forward to boarding the Sunseeker the following day. And then another setback in the pop-art bar. A.S.S had been on the blower exalting our six berth vessel.
We were seven with the Gardner.
ASS had a plan, but it was touch and go.
The sun rose on day four and we drove the coast to Monaco, heading for Coulthard’s Columbus Hotel where parking was arranged.
The wives joyously left the racers to sort the parking. “See you in a couple of minutes,” I said lovingly, but the Shrew was gone.
Then more surprises. No parking! Traffic snarled behind us whilst, stationary, the Developer called ASS who remorselessly directed us to a dark municipal half a mile away.
By the time our morning cognac was served ASS had found a replacement boat; but there was a sting. It was somewhere near Italy, had an electrical problem, needed an engineer and it was a bank holiday…they would do their best.
Gerhard’s Cafe in Monaco harbour became our departure lounge. The Gardner arrived by chopper, cheerfully naive. We got the Rose in.
Five hours into our Rose-a-thon, ASS sent us Tabatha in a perfumed Z4. She frothed about having sorted everything and I wondered how she would give us our day back.
Our merry tribe finally staggered onto the Sunseeker Manhattan (River Gipsy) at 4 pm. And our spirits lifted. Lush carpets, cream suede walls (you had to be there), mahogany and a gleaming sun deck. I collapsed briefly in our 007 ensuite berth, complete with air con and plasma, before lift off!
Our skipper was a ragged shaved skull, called Onwhen, or Ahnwhyn or Inwahn; affectionately renamed Uncle Unwin, after the bankrupt off licence chain. Jemima, a frustrated violinist, supported him as cook, cleaner, sommelier and DJ.
Once out of the marina the Shrew vomited repeatedly, whilst we polished off the bottles of vino collapso. We then worked steadily through the Kronenburg whilst the Gardner grumbled about having to sleep on a shelf in an ironing cupboard.
On returning to Monaco Mrs Cleaner and the Shrew struggled to walk, so a depleted band swayed towards the bright lights. After dinner (Le Grill at Hotel de Paris) Mrs Developer and the Gardner bailed out.
Minutes later the lads were in Casino Square, behind flagons of Kronenburg, watching the current of Lamborghinis, Astons, Ferraris and Bugattis. A hazy Casino followed, before walking the F1 track and running the Grand Hotel hairpin into the tunnel. The Cleaner revved, I hit the marbles and the Developer had gear box issues. What a sight. Three slightly intelligent, hammered, thirty somethings shamefully imitating racing cars.
I swallowed some spew as we spotted our next pit stop at La Rascasse. The Cleaner mounted a parked Enzo, then bolted despite having no idea where the boat was. He returned sulkily to beer, sweat and a band belting out Creep. I cleared the dance floor with an air guitar, that I dropped more than once.
Day five brought weeping brain matter and bacon butties. Uncle Unwin bashed about in the boat’s bowels whilst Jemima explained that Ronnie Wood and Keith Richards had recently chartered the boat, possibly explaining the broken cafetiere, lost toaster and red wine stains on the pristine carpets!
I opened the Zantac, whilst the Developer and the Gardner supped Sancerre. Then, right on cue, ASS was back on the dog with a mooring problem at Cap Ferrat. Instead we headed for Antibes and spent the day swimming, sunbathing and sipping cold beers. Were things on the up at last?
At sun set Uncle Unwin aimed at our Antibian mooring, whilst we planned dinner at L’Auberge Provencal. Then disaster. River Gipsy drifted and her propellor chewed up our neighbour’s mooring chain. And half their boat.
Two vessels became one tragic union and panic ensued. Raised voices and frantic telephone calls brought a hapless
rescue boat that left defeated. Uncle Unwin disappeared for a private breakdown. The Developer strutted the decks shouting,“Get me ASS on the phone!” Neighbouring decks watched in hysterics. I took the driving seat, pumping the thrusters to avoid further harm, beer in hand.
The Cleaner stubbed out a fag declaring that Jack Custard would investigate. His Fatface was off and he examined tangled chains disappearing into the water’s sickly skin, amongst cigarette butts, used jonnies and sewage, preparing to dive in.
Mrs Cleaner was rightly traumatised. The second engine was still running, the Cleaner had consumed two bottles of wine and he couldn’t swim. The Developer helpfully intervened shouting, “Get in there Custard. Sort it out, then we can go super large!”
Disappointingly a professional diver arrived, banged a hammer at the problem for a bit, then reported that we were well and truly fucked. All the way to dry dock.
Making do, we prepared to hit the medieval town. The Gardner emerged in a bath towel holding the bathroom door handle and a chrome banister. River Gipsy was falling apart!
Our banqueting table was set amongst fig trees and limes. Seven courses came slowly as knackered waiters brought us meals intended for other tables. Hours later, we trudged to the stricken craft, debating our curse.
Day six: We were due at Niki Beach for lunch. The diver returned with that useless hammer. ASS tracked Tabatha down and the vacant child suggested a coach to St Tropez. Only four rickety hours and a small extra charge.
Statesmanlike, the Developer reminded the drab femme that we were paying £4,000 per day to travel on a boat! Tabby agreed to arrange yet another boat, but it would take time.
The Cleaner refused to leave the boat in case Custard was needed. The rest of us wandered around Antibes before a long lunch at Dauberge. Back on River Gipsy Tabby paced pointlessly until boat three (Samui) arrived. She then arranged a minibus to Samui so we could sit on it. Jack Custard jumped into the front seat through the only functioning door. There was talk of us climbing in through the sunroof, but it did not have one, and so the rest of us walked.
Day seven: Our last day “on the boat.” We packed, and plodded round to Samui. Making new friends, the Gardner pebbledashed the side of the boat seven or eight times as the new skipper opened her up.
By late afternoon we were back in Monaco. Au Revoir to the Gardner and back in the cars for the short stage to St Paul De Vence. A few wrong turns later we crunched up the drive to Le Mas De Pierre, our home for a couple of days.
Day eight: Sunbeds and swimming before an excellent lunch at La Colombe d’Or. Beneath lilly pad umbrellas we tucked into immense Hors D’Oeuvres, Foie Gras, and Sole (not on the same plate) washed down with Vin de Provence. The Gardner called. His chopper had been delayed, like his flight, where they served him a most unexpected vegan meal before he landed at Heathrow, his baggage at Schipol. It became clear. The Gardner had been our albatross!
Later, back by the pool we hit the Rose. Then the spa. Then got locked in because it closed. Fortunately our blunders were overshadowed when a podgy Deutschlander, in bright Vilebrequins, flopped into the pool, triggering the deafening alarm. Swimming verboten after 6-30 pm.
Day nine: We were woken by the pool alarm. Don’t those Germans learn? After a breakfast of scrambled eggs and espresso we saddled up for a scorching run to Cassis.
And there we were, in the carpark at Hotel Les Roches Blanches, wondering where the Cleaner was. When the Beast finally arrived, after a maze of wrong turns, he bitterly regretted not spending a few quid on a Euro Sat Nav upgrade.
This was the last night with the full team. Dinner was fittingly at Le Grand Large. Then it was fond farewells.
Day ten: I was apprehensive as I prepared for the 509 mile drag up the Loire valley, but it proved to be a pleasure. The Shrew had calmed down; human limiter off, I pushed the M3 hard. Very hard.
By early afternoon we were enjoying drinks on the terrace of Chateau de Noizay. Admittedly my brake pads had just exploded, but that didn’t seem important anymore.
Day eleven brought a mere 318 mile stage to Calais. As we skirted Paris the northern latitudes brought clouds and dipping temperature.
Back in Blighty we stopped off at The Mermaid in Rye for a swift pint and watched the French tourists arriving on their grand vacances. As we sat and reflected I felt the first sting of autumn against the dying sunlight.
And there it all almost ended, but we were due in the Lake District for the traditional family get together. So it was a wallet crushing visit to BMW for new brakes and off up to the Lakes for the next installment; but then, that’s another story as is the staggering compensation claim that followed.